Planting More Successfully in Summer than Spring
By Ken Lain, The Garden Guy

This is the best time of year to visit your garden center to see all the summer plants in full bloom. Choosing from flowering plants when they're in bloom is better than depending on a tiny photo on a tag. You actually can see and touch what you will be adding to your landscape. Also, this is the time to find many bargains on large sizes that are not available in spring.

New plants are living, breathing items presenting some of the same challenges as bringing a new dog or cat to live with you. There are different qualities of plants, and stressed or sick plants will not fare well in any landscape. Root-bound plants usually don't do well so look for plants that are not overgrown in their pots. Choose your plants from garden centers that practice consistent watering. You don't want plants that are left wanting for water then are drenched to make up for having been neglected. "Dehydrate, Drench, and Drown" watering will stunt any plant's growth. Water-stressed plants are easy to identify because they will have wilting or yellow leaves.

Ask ten different gardeners the best way to install a newly purchased plant and you are likely to receive 10 different answers. Even among expert gardeners there are varied opinions, many based on regional gardening differences. Even the best time of year to plant is different in varying climates.

My most successful plantings are during our summer monsoon season; yes, even better than my spring plantings. I refer to the monsoons as our second planting season because plants respond so well to the warm soils, increased humidity, and all that glorious rain. In our mile-high climate, during the monsoons is an ideal time to plant shade trees, evergreens, shrubs, and other perennials.

A planting hole correctly dug and properly amended will result in a healthy, vigorous plant . Here is my 6-step planting technique that consistently works well at this altitude.

Step 1. The bowl-shaped hole should be the same depth as the plant's root ball but three times wider. Plants don't need a deep hole; they thrive when they are able to stretch out just under the soil's surface in search of food and water. That's why a bowl-shaped hole promotes the best root development. Rid the hole of rocks that are larger than a golf ball.

Step 2. Check for good drainage by filling the newly-dug hole with water. If after 12 hours the water hasn't drained away completely, dig a chimney-like hole into the bowl-shaped hole until you reach the next soil band and check the drainage again. Adding rocks to the bottom of the hole does not improve drainage. If your planting hole doesn't drain adequately, you've done nothing but create a bathtub where your plant is sure to drown.

Step 3. Improve the planting soil by amending it with composted mulch, not with manure which is too strong for new plants. There are two types of soil in mountain gardens. One is hard clay which does not drain well; the other is loose granite that water flows through as it flows through sand. Good mulch will keep clay soil loose and aerated and retain water up around the root ball in loose granite.

The amount of mulch per plant should be equal to the size of the root ball. That is the quantity of mulch you will need to blend with native soil to fill in around each plant. Spread a layer of mulch as top dressing to insulate the plant and retain water around the newly forming roots. If you are working with granite soil you should add a 3-inch deep layer of mulch .

If your planting area has so many rocks that once you've removed them there isn't any native soil left, use a good potting soil instead of mulch. Planting only in mulch is too heavy for most plants, but potting soil will add drainage and encourage healthy roots.

Step 4. Don't bury the plant; keep the trunk out of the soil. The top of the root ball you see protruding above the soil in the pot should be at the same level of the soil when installed in the ground. I see too many problems that come from plants buried literally to their deaths in the ground.

Step 5. Feed your new plantings with Start-N-Grow. It works well, is easy to use, and has a large margin for error that other foods don't have. Just sprinkle the granules on top of the root ball and water well. This slow-release nutrient will feed newly forming roots a little each time you water. There is no easier way to promote thriving, strong root systems.

Step 6. Promote deeper roots with Root Stimulator. Add this liquid rooting hormone to the water you'll use to saturate the root ball. This will cause the plant to form many new root hairs that will grow into the surrounding soil. More roots mean a more vigorous plant. Use this root tonic every two weeks for the first two months after planting.

For exact planting details that include drawings and measurements ask for my 'Guide to Mile High Planting' the next time you visit the garden center. You also might like the useful companion piece 'Mile High Watering Guide'.

Until next week, I’ll see you in the garden center.

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